Women are changing, and women's underwear is also. The main function of underwear for centuries is to hold the female chest, making it more straight and shaping the female curve. Now this function is weakening, starting with the disappearance of the hard underside support in the underwear - the steel ring (although the underwear is mostly made of hard plastic).
Steel rim underwear is still the mainstream, but the hood of the rimless underwear has gradually covered the gathered underwear in the past 3 to 5 years. Whether it is the rim-free underwear brand, the lack of rim underwear in the fashion KOL street shooting, or the traditional underwear such as Victoria's secret and Wacoal's frequent bad news, it shows the change.
Relaxation is an atmosphere and has been going on for years.
From the popularity of wide-leg pants and sneakers to the pursuit of sports and leisure at the same time on multiple occasions... While people are constantly complaining about stress and anxiety, they are less and less demanding themselves. You may feel that women's wear may become more casual and slack. But in fact, men can wear more and more casual and casual. Silicon Valley technology companies have taken the lead. There are fewer occasions and occupations to wear formal attire, and more and more sneakers and casual trousers are suitable for use: you can wear sneakers to participate in royal weddings. Only in history, men have been less restrained in dress than women.
The popularity of rimless underwear is nothing surprising.
China, the United States and Japan have seen a trend of rising steel-free underwear.
A straightforward example is that Uniqlo is going to surpass Wacoal in the Japanese market. UNIQLO's parent company's market share in the Japanese women's underwear market increased from 15% to 20.03% in five years. This makes it very close to the market share of the top-ranking Wacoal 20.11%. Uniqlo only sells rimless underwear, while Wacoal focuses on gathered underwear and adjustable underwear.
There are also some signs in the Chinese market: on Taobao, the sales of no steel rings have exceeded the number of steel rings. According to data provided by Taobao to Curiosity Daily, the sales ratio of steel rings and steel rings in 2017 is close to 7:3. The CBNData “2017 Online Lingerie-Related Consumer Series Study” shows that from July 2016 to June 2017, on the Tmall and Taobao platforms, the sales of non-steel bras were three times that of steel bras.
In 2017, the trading volume of Taobao's rimless bra market (excluding Tmall) has exceeded 5 billion yuan. However, because the price of the rimless bra is lower, it shows that it has not exceeded the rim underwear on the market scale.
Inside and outside such a monopoly without steel rings, the expansion of the main comfortable underwear brand, can also explain the vitality of this market.
Established in 2012, sales reached 150 million yuan in 5 years. Internal and external sales have maintained a 500% growth rate for three consecutive years. In April 2018, it received another 60 million yuan in financing. Now it is expanding into offline stores and entering more cities. It is expected that the number of physical stores will reach 30 by next year.
The relative gap in the market has given such brand opportunities both inside and outside. Through the brand exposure, please ask Du Fu as a spokesperson, open the store, it may further promote the popularity of no steel ring in the development process.
But in terms of overall online consumption trends, Taobao is playing a bigger role in helping some merchants follow another rimless underwear, the Bralette (a thin padded or padless sewn bra). Consumer trends.
The “Amoy Xiao Er” Gu Yan, who is in charge of the underwear category, told the Curiosity Daily that they found that consumers who started searching for keywords such as French, Lace and Bralet on Taobao in 2016 increased. So Taobao recommended this potential category to more businesses.
"Through some of our (Taobao) recommended methods, as well as the operation of the event, this is done." She said that at the beginning of 2016, only a dozen Taobao merchants had this product, and now almost all underwear key businesses Will sell Bralette.
Chen Yulin, the founder of the underwear brand "Curious Honey", believes that the original Chinese consumers have known this padless lace-stitched bra from a foreign street. By the way, Bralette can also be worn outside.
Bralette has been popular in the US since 2015: from Google Trends, this is the fastest period. According to WGSN, the new style of Bralette in 2016 increased by 157% compared with the previous year.
Fast fashion brands such as Urban Outfitter, Topshop, ASOS, Aerie and Oysho (owned by Zara's parent company Inditex) have launched similar models. At first, these brands launched Bralette (and did not choose other bras) simply because its process is simpler: only sewing is required. In general, the underwear with the steel ring needs not only the support of the material such as hard plastic, but also the mold to make the cup with the curvature.
But the brand quickly discovered its advantages: lower prices, can be worn inside and outside, comfortable, thin and light – this product became a weapon for fast fashion brands (and youth clothing brands) to grab market share from Wei Mi. (one).
These brands soon discovered that the Bralette could be styled to fit, which in turn would promote the sale of other apparel. So they also launched a top that is suitable for revealing Bralette, such as a V-necked or off-shoulder T-shirt, an open-back top, a vest with a lower cuff. “This is an incremental business,” Aerie's parent company, American Eagle Outfitters (hereafter referred to as AEO), wrote in the earnings report.
Two years after the launch of Bralette products, AEO said in 2016 that its brand Aerie has a 4% increase in the same store with Bralette. After the clothing brand, Wei Mi launched Bralette in 2016.
Whether it's the once popular gathering underwear, or the rims that are now in the ascendant stage, women wear underwear, choose what underwear, what underwear is popular - always influenced by culture, not medical reasons (with rim underwear) And breast cancer has also proven to be not directly related).
“One of the main attacks of feminists is the materialization of women in terms of gender. Most radical activists first choose to attack and reject the appearance of traditional feminization. (They) no longer remove hair, make up, do not Exquisite curls, no plastic garments, and of course abandonment of bras and waistbands,” Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau wrote in Uplift: The Bra in America.
From the beginning of the Middle Ages until the early 20th century, corsets and long-sleeved shirts bound women for a long time. This type of underwear will hold the chest high; whales and other bones are added to the waist, and the belt can be used to narrow the waist and abdomen; some have a shelf for the skirt - in order to make the female buttocks look fuller. From the current point of view, this is to cater to the aesthetics of men's breasts, thin waist and fat buttocks.
Since the 17th century, people have proposed the harm of corsets. From the late 1960s to the early 1990s, the Lancet published more than one article about the hidden dangers of the waist. Even in tight-fitting tights, the corset still affects the overall function of the lungs. This does not affect the enthusiasm of women in the upper class for the corset. Some of these curves are almost crazy, and the mainstream small-size corsets are 16 to 18 inches (40 to 46 cm). Look at the bundle of bras that are now left to know.
Later, the corset bra became slightly looser and softer. But it was not until the 1920s that the corsets were really eliminated. The fashion (still) is from top to bottom, and some French movie actresses say they are no longer wearing corsets (although they still look as if they are wearing a corset). At that time, the corset corset was gradually considered to be something that middle-aged women need. The most popular style of the era was Flapper, with low waistline, short hair, red lips, and a short skirt that was raised to the knee. In addition to a single elegant and complex aesthetic, women have more neutral dress options: pants, straight suits.
The socio-economic background is at work: World War I allowed women from European and American countries to enter the factory and undertake some jobs that were originally male. In 1919, the United Kingdom enacted the Sex Disqualification (Removal) Act, which prohibits certain industries from being considered ineligible and incapable of doing business based on gender and marriage, giving middle-class women some job opportunities. At the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, American women gradually gained voting rights in various states.
The United States entered a golden age: from 1922 until 1929, new economic indicators were refreshed almost every year. The prosperity of the United States has spread to Europe: the entire Western world is experiencing the Roaring Twenties, and more and more women are entering jobs.
Perhaps it can be said that when the more female labor is needed, uncomfortable underwear is becoming less and less popular. There are more women working outside now. Most urbanites go out early and return late, and it would be uncomfortable to wear a steel rim underwear all day long. When they got home, their first move was to untie the bra.
The American advertising brand Lively's advertising phrase is: Your day starts at 6 am, as if you have time to spend on those uncomfortable underwear. The brand's founder, Michelle Cordeiro Grant, also served as senior merchandise director at Wei Mi. She left the company to create a new brand to bring good-looking and comfortable, allowing women to “live 14 hours a day”.
Allure magazine believes that some teenagers like Bralette because it expresses nature and does not succumb to traditional attitudes. Some young stars like Miley Cyrus and Lady Gaga were photographed wearing Bralette. Yes, it’s not a taboo to expose underwear. It’s a novel match, a fashion.
“In a soft cup without a steel ring, each person's chest shape is different, which brings a feeling of 'imperfection.'” Araks Yeramyan founded the epoch-free underwear brand of the same name in New York. She believes that the natural chest shape of the rimless underwear is against the stiffened cup of the normal bra. "(The bra) makes everyone's chest look the same."
This is reminiscent of a feminine declaration that has been like a niche music for decades: throwing away your bra - in 1968, a group of feminists (feminism) headed by female writer Robin Morgan The protesters threw the bra into the "free trash can" outside Miss America's election, and some people lit the trash can.
The hippies like to turn the "throw away bra" into a banner slogan during the parade, and the company likes to describe it as an aesthetic orientation - they are not willing to let consumers really throw away the bra, but softly soothe them: like yourself The body, don't rush to please others with the flow. Try these bras without a fixed shape.
This trick is very effective.
Not only is there no rim underwear, but the market for sports underwear is also growing. It is the fastest growing segment of underwear category. Globally, the annual compound growth rate of sports underwear is around 10.8%. Not only in sports scenes, but more and more models or European and American stars wear it in street shooting, such as Kendall Jenner and Chiara Ferragni. Jennifer Lawrence even walked on the red carpet in sports underwear. Sports underwear is also a type of rimless underwear.
Similar to the popularity of sportswear, some rimless underwear can accommodate multiple occasions. So a bra with a multi-purpose occasion between sports underwear and no steel ring (daily) underwear was born. “As our lifestyles become more diverse, we also need underwear that can adapt to a variety of occasions,” said fashion author Courtney Brunson.
“Girls may feel that two pieces and three pieces are very troublesome. She hopes that one piece can be done. Especially sports, physical education classes, or sweating,” Uniqlo China CMO Wu Pinhui told Curious Daily.
In addition, the influence of consumption habits, the current measurement of the pursuit of "fast" and "convenient", the measurement of the size of the bottom and cup is not friendly enough.
Non-rim underwear is generally supported by elastic fabrics, with higher tolerance, often with SML size. "Nihon Keizai Shimbun" believes that this is one of the reasons why Uniqlo can closely pursue Wacoal in Japan. Young women are too lazy to measure their size, or the amount is not accurate. Compared to one piece of conventional underwear, it is more troublesome to buy a steel-free underwear at this time.
Research institutions NPD have observed similar trends in the US market. In 2017, SML, an alpha sizing non-sports underwear, grew by 3% year-on-year.
It is worth noting that the sales of L Brands and Wacoal, the secret parent companies of Victoria, which are more inclined to traditional aesthetics, have been declining since they reached their peak in 2015.
Since the beginning of 2016, the same-store sales of Wei Mi and its younger and lower-priced sideline Pink have fallen almost every month. In 2016 and 2017, it decreased by 1% and 8% respectively.
In fact, in 2014, when people Newchic Coupon began to attack Wei Mi's "The Perfect Body" advertisement, they accused Wei Mi of starting to make the model's waist thinner and the chest more upright, and the aesthetic style and underwear market pattern. It is changing.
Some small brands have seized the opportunity. Perhaps the most successful of these is the Aerie mentioned above. Its slogan is "the real you is sexy" (the real you are sexy). Since the beginning of 2014, Aerie has announced that it will no longer refine any advertisements and in-store promotions.
Not all Aerie products are rimless. But the brand emphasizes natural beauty and fights against the “body-positive campaign” of “slimness and beauty”.
It unremarkably displays the physical characteristics of amateur models, such as tattoos, freckles, braces and even small intestines. In the latest season, it’s even
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